Better Casting Means More Fish
Part III
pt. 1
pt. 2
pt. 4
May 14, 2009
In my previous column dealing with casting I mentioned the need for quality in the entire outfit.
I especially had lines in mind when I did so. Be sure to get top quality line. The last thing you need as you learn is a line that doesn’t have good casting qualities. Many times I've had someone tell me they just bought a brand new casting outfit. "I paid $200 for a reel," they’ll say, "and more than $100 for my new rod. But I got a real bargain on my line. They had some on sale down in the basement that was only a couple of bucks for 200 yards."
Avoid that kind of line as you would poison ivy. You get what you pay for and that applies to lines as well as other quality fishing gear.
There are things to remember when you run new line onto your reel. Pay attention to what the manufacturer of the reel has to say about it. Don't overfill the spool but be sure to put on enough. If the ends of the spool have markers showing the maximum line capacity, put on enough to stay slightly below them. Don't reel on so much you cover up the markers.
To go back a ways here’s something else of importance you've probably not heard about or even considered. There was a time some years ago when some reels came with a “V” spool or a semi “V” spool. Lots of anglers had problems with these reels. For some reason the lines they used with them didn’t seem to spool properly.
The way to solve that problem was to not run your line through the level wind guide when you first put it on. It was far better to tie your line to the spool, but guide it onto the spool with your fingers as you filled the reel the very first time. Then after you had filled the reel, you ran the end of the line out through the level wind guide.
The next step was to pull all the line out through the level wind guide and then wind it back on with the level wind guide. If you followed this procedure it was of great help to the performance of these reels. If you attempted to run line onto a “V” spool reel by using the level wind guide the first time it was filled, you’d probably get line build up along the sides of the spool. If that happened, there was forever going to be a couple of loops of loose line at the end of a cast no matter how careful you were in thumbing the spool.
Reels with the “V” spool aren’t nearly as popular today as they were at one time, but there are still some around. Often they are not being used because the owner never could get the darn thing to function well. I mention it now because it points up the need to pay attention to what the reel and line makers have to say about their products.
In previous columns I mentioned that it was a good idea to get yourself some flat sided practice plugs as worked on developing your casting skills. It might also be well to explain why I recommend a flat-sided casting weight as opposed to those that are round. The best place to do your casting practice is in your own front or back yard or a neighborhood park. Don't wait until you go fishing. Your practice should be done before you get anywhere near the water.
On a hard surface the flat-sided plug comes in without much twist. That's not true of the round type. They roll around as you retrieve. The result might well be a twisted line. You don't need that, especially as you're learning.
Practice casting weights aren’t always easy to find. If I could make the rules where the sale of fishing tackle is concerned, one of my first acts would be to have every tackle dealer in the country include a set of practice casting weights with each new outfit sold. The user would benefit. So would the tackle dealer and the manufacturer. Why? Because if the customer practices with those casting weights he'll be a better caster and catch more fish. This will in turn make him a happier customer.
Keep your eyes open for the flat sided type of practice casting weights I've recommended. You’ll eventually find them if you stick with it. When you do find them, slide a plastic skirt like those used on a spinnerbait onto the weight. You’ll find it easier to follow the flight of your weight as you practice if you take time to put the skirt on first.
Let’s say you've followed the steps I've outlined and you're all set to start your casting practice. Now forget all about distance and concentrate on accuracy. I would underline that advice in red if I could. Resist the trap most newcomers to casting fall into. That's to get a chokehold on their rod and wind up as if they are doing the Hungarian Hammer throw in an attempt to see how far they can heave the practice plug.
When you begin your casting set targets at 25 and 30-feet. Don't try to throw one foot farther until you can hit your targets at that distance consistently. A couple of bright colored Hula Hoops make excellent targets. They stand out well on yard grass and they are about the right size. You'll hit them often enough not to be totally frustrated. You'll also be surprised how often you miss.
A small kiddies’ wading pool is another excellent target. You needn’t fill it
with water unless you choose to do so. I usually don’t. Instead of filling the little pool with water I place a blanket in it so the practice weight doesn’t always bounce out when I hit it.
This business of concentrating on accuracy is so darn important in the learning to cast process. Physical strength has little to do with good casting. What does count is the timing and coordination you develop through practice.
I'll make you a promise. If you'll concentrate on accuracy until you're hitting those Hula Hoops eight times out of 10, then greater distance will come along as a fringe benefit all by itself. Do it the other way by putting the emphasis on distance, and you'll be in trouble from the beginning.
In my next column in this series we’ll take a close look at how to best execute the actual cast.
-To Be Continued-