That's not to say the other three Senkos aren't outstanding baits. They sure are, but the 4" 9S, 6" 9L, and 7" 9X are all designed fatter and obviously, the 9L and 9X are longer to hold more appeal to increasingly bigger bass and are good night baits.

1. heavier and sinks faster with more rocking motion - a quicker reaction trigger
2. casts farther and more accurately, covers more water
3. can use a slightly heavier line
4. more meat to rig the hook more securely and to use a bigger hook
5. appeals to fish in normal to aggressive feeding modes
6. when fish are feeding normally or aggressively, all of the above factors let you fish the 9S harder and longer than the 9J thereby resulting in more time in the water and more bites under those conditions

As for the advantages of the slimmer 4" 9J:

1. thinner, sinks more slowly with more tip quivering
2. more care must be taken on the cast using lighter tackle
3. can use a slightly lighter line
4. less plastic to hold the hook, but you can step down to thinner, lighter finesse hook sizes
5. appeals to fish that may be acting spooky, lethargic or disinterested in normal sizes of baits
6. when finesse is required, all of the above factors let you fish the 9J slower and more delicately, resulting in more time to finesse a bite from fish under those conditions

Here are some more tips I'd like to share with you from our Inside Line Magazine writers.

For sure, the most popular rigging method is weightless with an offset shank hook. Match size/strength of the hook to the size/strength of the fish you reasonably expect to catch and the size/strength of your rod/reel/line. Very often, a hook can be "gap-limited" especially on a chunky body like the Senko. Be conscious that the difference of one hook size up or down of a make or model - or switching to the same size of another make or model can mean the difference between missing them and hooking them.

A few things to make sure of right from the start with a weightless Senko are:

1. Is the Senko body straight? If the bait is not straight, you can tug and pull on the bent areas (usually the tips) and the bait will miraculously re-align itself and straighten out pretty good.
2. Are you rigging it straight? Use the seams as guides and make sure you hit all the seams every time you rig the Senko. Also, make sure the hook eye is rigged dead center. Make sure the bait lies perfectly straight when rigged, and that it is neither stretched too tightly nor too loosely when rigged. Err on the side of too loose rather than too tight. A tight rigging makes for a poor hookset whereas a little looseness in the rigging allows the body of the bait to easily be depressed away from the hook point on a bite.
3. Are you retrieving it too fast? Especially at the end of the retrieve, if you crank it too fast to make another cast, it may spin and twist your line.
4. Are you using a heavy enough hook? Your hook may be too light, allowing the bait to spin. Use a hook that just barely acts as a keel or rudder. On baitcasting tackle, there are two styles of hooks that have found favoritism with Senko anglers. One is the series 50 round bend - which has less keel and more "do nothing" effect on the Senko. The other is a series 63 EWG which has a ruddering effect on the bait and causes more side-to-side wobble to it. On spinning gear, the thin but strong Sugoi series 59 is a favorite. For wacky rigging or nose-hooking, the series 53 Split Shot hook is used, and the straight shank series 49 Gamakatsu is used for weedless wacky rigging. Viva la difference!
5. I glue Senkos to hooks so they hold where they are supposed to. Even still, an aggressive fish will "de-pants" them as I call it - glue or no glue. Glue is not necessary on a fresh, firm Senko right out of the bag, but once it's been tugged on once or twice, the hook hole gets "hogged out" and it's prone to slip. I use Zap-A-Gap or Krazy Glue. I have tried other glues, such as the stuff they sell in pharmacies for ladies' fake fingernails - but it does not hold bait. There are two varieties of Zap-A-Gap. The first variety is thin Zap-A-Gap and I use it to hold baits in proper position on the hook. Even if your bait is wet, full of fish slime or whatever, Zap-A-Gap holds it on the hook, and you do not need to wait for it to dry before you cast again. It sets underwater no problem. The second variety is thick Zap-A-Gap, and it's best to make repairs if you desire to mend torn baits at home. If you can not find Zap-A-Gap, look in a hobbyist shop. Remember, you are wholly responsible to read and follow all precautionary use statements that come with glue products.

As for the best Senko technique, here it is from Jerry "Bubba" Puckett: "A minimalist presentation is often the best - wherein the buoyancy of the line offsets the weight of the hook, resulting in a lazy, horizontal glide with an enticing tail quiver thrown in for good measure. All sizes of the Senko (there are five sizes) are equally effective, but must be paired with the correct combination of rigging and tackle to effect the same drop characteristics. It also seems to be gaining ground in a wacky-rig presentation. But, if the fish don't happen to be located correctly, or if the fisherman lacks confidence/patience/finesse, the Senko will be a disappointment. The less one does, and the more slack the bait is allowed, the more effective it appears to be. For the patient few, it's devastating as it falls through deep, suspended fish. You will get many fish on the fall, many more will pluck it off the bottom as the Senko lies there motionless."

That's the best way to fish the Senko in a nutshell. If you click on "Senko Tips" down the left side bar, you'll find other tips and news article where the Inside Line Pro-Staffers take turns giving you their best Senko tips.

Another article, "Senko Secrets" by outdoor writer Steve Price tells how Gary Yamamoto, designer of the Senko uses his invention. That article is at: http://www.insideline.net/2000/price-0708-00.html

If you click on "Ask The Pros" down the left side bar again, you will see all sorts of questions and answers by Inside Line Pro-Staffers which pertain to Senko fishing.

In and around cover, Senko's work everywhere if you follow the tactics described in these articles. Docks and laydowns are natural hotspots for them, and if you key in on how Gary Yamamoto describes his brush fishing tactics in the "Senko Secrets" and "Senko Lazy Susan" articles, that is exactly how to fish them in docks and laydowns...or around any cover.

Moving Water. If you plan to use Senkos in moving water or current, here is an article, "You Can Drift, Swim or Jig It" about how to use Senkos in flowing water: http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/drift-swim-jig.shtml